is the photography of ice crystals. In this type of photography, this is the secret to obtaining the vividly mezmerizing images you might see in a book or gallery, but without the need for the use of colored LEDs. So this idea may have come to me from the art of light painting, in which you pretty much paint ssomething that already exists, but by using a light instead of a brush. I have yet to try the techniques listed here on this post. I think it would be really compelling if we were to use this on macros. We could theoretically use it on landscapes, if we could find a way to do that. One proposal would be to work at night. The advantage of this is that you don't have to work using sunlight. This means that you can change the quality of light whenever you want, without having to wait for the clouds to create diffused light, or until after sunset for ambiance. If it's already cloudy, well, then you won't have to wait for the sun to come out. The disadvantage would be that you would need a really long time to light the whole scene, especially if the scene is large. If the scene is something like a mountain scape, well... you might want to call off your photo session. And also, it takes lots of skill through experience when it comes to getting the lighting right, or just to your taste. That's because if you'd want to simulate a single point light source, you'd need to make sure that the light is in the same place the whole time. Unless of course that's what you're aiming for. Lighting the night lends itself to pretty much unlimited angles of lighting possible, since you can take a flashlight and move it 360 degrees. And you can also combine multiple angles of light, something that can't be done easily in the daytime without the use of reflections. But again, the sun only give you either sharp, or diffuse light at the same time. Now, there is yet another possibility that you could try out some day (have I said this earlier?). You can set up a camera outside, in the same place, and in the same position. And make sure that there are significant intervals of time between each picture. The intervals need to be long enough so that the angle of lighting is noticeably different between images. You may need to experiment with that. Now, even if you did this same thing, without changing levels, you might still get something pretty compelling results. In fact, I have never even tried this, although I have thought about it before. So; maybe you can try it out yourself sometime and tell me how it goes.
Let's talk about another interesting approach to images. I have tried simulating longer shutter speeds before by combing multiple images. Does it work? Yes and No. See, what you need for an image like this, without a filter or low aperture setting, is a small time interval between images. This way, you can make for smoother transition of features, and the image will not be as choppy. This works best when using increasingly longer shutter speeds. In fact, the best method for producing these kinds of images would be to use a remote shutter release, and preferably a camera with a fast image processor, as well as a high grade of memory card. You know, that's the great thing about more modern cameras, is that they have faster processors. This is one of the most important features on a camera, IMO. And this means that there is another reason for why high resolution doesn't matter so much. More on that topic in the next discussion.
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