Directly observing 4 dimensions in video/photos without 3d glasses or crossing eyes

Some videos can be watched in 3d without using 3d glasses. These consist of 2 images and when you cross your eyes, the image in the center is in 3d. But there's a way of seeing 3d without 3d glasses using a single image at a time. Also, not using a hologram. First, two images are taken at a different angle with a certain distance between them. Let's assume two cameras are used. They are both pointed at the same place. Then the images are loaded onto a computer, and a video made by alternating the images. The more angles there are, the better the effect. The angle at which the cameras are pointed at depends on what area is trying to be focused on and the distance from the area or object to the cameras. To make a 3d video with two alternating images, the effect works best if you choose an area of interest and put it in the middle of the picture. This makes for compelling images, for example, you could make a 3d image with extended dynamic range or a tilt shift effect. Here's an example of a 3d image like the one I told about earlier, on this link:

.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qR8nZ60molA It's interesting to try it with different distances between the pictures.

4th dimension

You may have thought that seeing 3d on a monitor without glasses was impossible. But, you can see the 4th dimension in video without using 3d glasses too! Not only the effects of time, but time itself! You may think that you already see time when you watch a video when the video moves. Well, you do. However, that's like seeing 3d on a 2d surface. You may not notice it, but you can see time to a certain level even though you only have two eyes. For example, when you track a light with your eyes at night, you are only seeing it in 2d or 3d. However, when the same happens and you keep your eyes still, if the light moves fast enough, you see a trail made by the light. The trail made by the light is similar to the 4th dimension. Considering this, a video seen in the 4th dimension would change similar to one seen in 3d, however,you would see the paths made by objects in time. Depending on the speed at which such objects would move and the duration of the video, you would see the paths behind the objects disappear. Or you would see the paths stay where they are and at the end of the video there may be shapes formed by the paths of the moving objects. The tantalizing question about this is, would the paths intersect. It may look that way in the video. However, the video doesn't show with certainty if the paths intersect, collide, or blend into each other because the area being filmed is moving relative to space, and not so relative to Earth. A great example of the 4th dimension is light art in photos, where a "long exposure" and lights are used to create light drawings.
A printed 3d photo can be made by printing multiple images made at different perspectives and putting them in order onto a wheel and let it spin. Or you can create a flipbook from them.

Pro photography techniques

I haven't written in a while and I've nearly forgotten about my blogger. Anyway, today I'll share some of  my knowledge of photography. I'll talk about what I do to make my photos stand out... (techniques which pros may use rather than usual photo edits)
One of the techniques I use is HDR (high dynamic range). This technique takes two or more images exposed differently to create extend a camera's dynamic range. Using software, the images can be merged. This helps lighten shadows and darken highlights. The software I use is qtpfsgui for GIMP and enfuseGUI, because they're free. EnfuseGUI is different than HDR software as it uses exposure fusion- the results turn out very well though. The thing I like about HDR versus enfuseGUI is that the sky is dark in the final image which I think looks appealing. This technique isn't always necessary as sometimes HDR images don't have enough contrast.
The next technique I use is to reduce noise cause by low long exposures or high ISOs. It's called averaging. It consists of taking multiple images from a tripod and combining them. I use a script in GIMP that does it. The images are layers. The top layer opacity is 100%, followed by the second (50% opacity), followed by the 3rd (33.3% opacity), and so on. (each layer is half of the opacity of the layer above it.) Use this for static objects.
A third technique is one that I don't have the software for but it may come in handy. It's called focus stacking. There's a way to do this in Photoshop. Or, you can purchase software called Helicon Focus. This comes in handy when you need infinite depth of field. What you do is, focus on the closest point that your photographing (switch ti manua focus) and move the focus farther out VERY SLOWELY and make sure the camera's not moving. Then, load the pics onto Helicon Focus and wait. Or, attach the camera to the computer and the software will control your camera. It will focus your camera for you and you can also use the software for time lapse.
Increasing resolution: If you want to increase your resolution, first put the camera on tripod. Make a mosaic out of multiple images- like panoramas on top of each other- by rotating the camera. The lens you use will determine how wide the image's field of view will be. So, if you don't want a huge field of view, try it with a telephoto lens. Use full resolution. Make a row of images going left to right. Rotate the camera to make another row. A specialized kind of tripod is available now to help- named Gigapan, it automatically does it for you. To stitch the images, use Microsoft ICE.
The techniques I described here can make your photos look as if you used a much better camera, without spending more money.